Introduction These days, it's quite jarring to walk around parts of old Beijing. Although old grannies can still be seen pushing cabbages in rickety wooden carts amidst huddles of men playing chess, it's not uncommon to see them all suddenly scurry to the side to make way for a brand-new BMW luxury sedan squeezing through the narrow hutong (a traditional Beijing alleyway). The same could be said of the longtang-style alleys of Sichuan or a bustling marketplace in Sichuan. Modern China is a land of paradox, and it's becoming increasingly so in this era of unprecedented socioeconomic change. Relentless change—seen so clearly in projects like the Yangtze River dam and the relocation of thousands of people—has been an elemental part of China's modern character. Violent revolutions in the 20th century, burgeoning population growth (China is now the world's most populous country by far) and economic prosperity (brought about by a recent openness to the outside world) have almost made that change inevitable. China's cities are being transformed—Beijing and Shanghai are probably the most dynamic cities in the world right now. And the country's political position in the world is rising: The 2008 Olympics were awarded to Beijing, despite widespread concern about how the government treats its people. China has always been one of the most attractive travel destinations in the world, partly because so much history exists alongside the new, partly because it is still so unknown to outsiders. The country and its people remain a mystery. The rice paddies may have sprouted cities and manufacturing centers, and the streets may be clogged with cars and pollution, but the people remain rooted in a rich cultural heritage. They still burn joss sticks for good luck in an enterprise—even as they iron out the details of that enterprise on a cell phone. Geography China, the third-largest nation in the world, encompasses virtually every type of terrain imaginable, from the steamy lowlands of the southeast to the Himalayan peaks of Tibet to the Gobi Desert in the north. Most of the country's major rivers, including the Yellow and Yangtze, flow from west to east. China is bordered by 14 other countries. History China is one of the oldest nations in the world. Its recorded history dates back 5,000 years. For most of that time, China was ruled by a succession of dynasties, and each left its mark on the country. For instance, the Qin began construction of the Great Wall, the Sui built the Grand Canal, and the Song period is known for its artistic achievements. The first Europeans to reach China were the Portuguese, who began trading on the island of Macau in the 16th century. The British soon followed, but their efforts were largely unprofitable until they began pushing opium in the mid-1800s. The Opium Wars eventually led to British control of Hong Kong, a place that was not returned to China until 1997. (Macau was reintegrated into China in 1999.) The last dynasty officially ended in 1911. The ensuing years devolved into a struggle between the capitalist forces of Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Zedong's Chinese Communist Party. Chiang Kai-shek held control through the 1930s, but after World War II, Mao's guerrilla army began winning the battle. In 1949, the People's Republic of China was born and Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan. Led by Mao Zedong, the new government transformed China into a communist nation. Land was redistributed, industries were absorbed by the state and, most unfortunately, opposition was not tolerated. Tibet was brought under Beijing's control in the 1950s. Thousands of writers, artists, teachers and others were imprisoned or killed during the Cultural Revolution of 1966-70. In 1989, 13 years after Mao's death, the students demonstrating for democracy in Beijing's Tiananmen Square were overrun by soldiers and tanks. Although Mao's legacy of intellectual oppression remains intact, China's recent leaders have embraced free trade. The country was admitted to the World Trade Organization in 2001, which means the world's most-populous nation became officially open for global business. The first big venture is set to take place in Beijing in 2008, when the Olympic Games go to China for the first time. Snapshot China's main attractions are the Great Wall, the terra-cotta warriors, acrobats, shopping, Hong Kong, Tibet, pandas, ancient instrumental music and Chinese opera, food, the Forbidden City and a diverse landscape. China will appeal to open-minded travelers interested in visiting an important culture that is truly different from their own—they'll have the experience of a lifetime. China will not appeal to travelers who have respiratory problems (many of the cities are rather polluted), who demand impeccable service and accommodations at all times, or who don't like Chinese food. Outside of the major tourist areas, creature comforts can be few and far between. For many travelers, group travel will be the best way to go; in some parts of China—politically sensitive areas such as Tibet, for instance—group travel was once the only way to visit. However, as Tibet and other areas of the country increasingly open up to tourism, that is changing. It is certainly possible to travel individually, although the services of a local guide are still necessary and permits require visits to be as part of an organized tour, officially at least. Given that access to parts of the country can be denied to foreigners without advance warning, it's best to have a flexible schedule and to keep abreast of news developments. Potpourri The Kong Family Cemetery in Qufu is the world's largest clan cemetery. The great sage Confucius and more than 100,000 descendants spanning 76 generations are buried there. There are now 4 million Kong family members in China and overseas. A China-wide Kong family tree record is maintained in Qufu. The most recent update started in 1998 and took more than five years to complete. The last eunuch of the last emperor died in 1996, closing the chapter on one of the stranger aspects of imperial China. Aside from the emperor, eunuchs were the only men trusted to enter the inner courtyards of the royal palace where the emperor's concubines resided. During most of its 5,000-year history, China has been one of the world's technological leaders—it's the birthplace of moveable type, astronomy, gunpowder and spaghetti. Although the country's minority groups make up only 8% of the population, their traditional homelands cover more than half of China. In addition to the majority Han Chinese, there are 55 minority groups, the largest of which is the Zhuang, numbering more than 15 million. Yunnan province is home to 26 minorities. The written Chinese language is expressed by a series of characters in which one character or a series of characters together express certain meanings or things. Although there are upward of 40,000 characters in the language, most people know only a few thousand. Those interested in Buddhism may want to visit shrines in the four sacred mountains of Chinese Buddhism: Emei Mountain (Sichuan), Wutai Mountain (Shanxi Province), Jiuhua Mountain (Anhui) and Putuo Mountain (Zhejiang). Kaifeng (380 mi/610 km southwest of Beijing) still has a small Chinese Jewish community. Their ancestors fled to China after the Roman conquest of Israel. Martial-arts fans may want to make a pilgrimage to the Shaolin Temple in Zhengzhou (465 mi/750 km south of Beijing), birthplace of kung fu. SEE & DO Recreation Because China encompasses such a vast land area, recreational opportunites can seem nearly endless. Practically any sport or terrain you require can be found—but the time needed to get there can be daunting. Beaches Few visitors realize that China has beaches. In fact, a number of towns and cities around its lengthy east and south coastline have beaches popular with domestic tourists, but it is tropical Hainan Island—China's southernmost province—which has developed as an international beach destination. The best beaches are near Sanya, the town at the southernmost tip. Luxury resort hotels line Sanya Bay and nearby Yalong Bay, which are lapped by the warm South China Sea. Bicycling Beijing has 9 million bicycles, and throughout the country, many locals rely on the bicycle as their mode of transport. Visitors can rent cycles in many places, and most of China is open for those who want to travel around backcountry areas. However, some places remain off-limits and others require permits. Good areas for exploring by bicycle range from the Great Wall near Beijing and around Guilin and Yangshuo in Guangxi province to more demanding terrain in Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou and Guangdong provinces. Tibet offers extremely challenging cycling. Bird Watching China is home to about 1,200 species of birds, including the red-crowned crane and brown-eared pheasant, which are found nowhere else in the world. Sichuan is among the best provinces for bird-watching, with nearly 600 species resident there, as well as popular areas such as Jiuzhaigou Valley and Mount Emei. Other top bird-watching sites are Caohai Lake in Guizhou, Qinghai Lake in Qinghai and Zhalong Nature Reserve in far northeast province Heilongjiang—China's largest reed swamp, where the endangered red-crowned crane is one of six crane species in residence. Boating & Sailing Many of China's cities have parks with lakes where you can rent pleasure boats. They include Beijing's Beihai Park and Kunming Lake, alongside the Summer Palace, as well as Hangzhou's famous West Lake, a favorite spot for lovers. Water sports including sailing are available at hotels in Sanya, on Hainan Island. Otherwise, sailing is in its infancy in China at the moment. However, with its burgeoning economy and a rapidly-growing boat-building industry, China will undoubtedly become a major sailing destination. It is likely to center on Qingdao in Shandong province, as well as places such as Hong Kong, Macau and Hainan Island. Golf There are more than 200 golf courses throughout China. Many of them are at golf resorts where facilities are of the highest quality, with courses by some of the world's top designers. China now hosts several events on the European and Asian PGA tours. Mission Hills Golf Club, at Shenzhen in the southern province of Guangdong, is the world's largest golf complex with 10 courses and plans to add two more, including another 18-hole championship course. Guangdong has more than 70 courses in all. Other golfing hot spots include Beijing, Shanghai and neighboring Jiangsu province, Kunming and Lijiang in Yunnan, Guilin in Guangxi, Chengdu in Sichuan and Dalian in Liaoning province. Hiking & Walking Every kind of hiking option is available in China, from gentle walks through forests and other scenic areas to treks among the world's highest peaks. Some of the best hiking is in western China. One of the most popular routes in Yunnan is Tiger Leaping Gorge, a path high above the fledgling Yangtze River (known as the Chang Jiang at that point) as it squeezes between towering mountains. There is other good hiking around Dali. A walk to the top of Mount Emei (near Chengdu in Sichuan province) and back again takes three days, with accommodations at summit hotels and monasteries on the mountain flanks. Or it can be combined with the mountain minibus service and cable cars to make it as short as half a day. Get a real flavor of Tibet by following routes used by pilgrims. They range from circuits around Lhasa's Jokhang Temple or Potala Palace to one around the base of sacred Mount Kailash, in western Tibet. The Great Wall can be hiked in a number of areas, among them between Jinshanling and Simatai or around Badaling or Mutianyu—all not far from Beijing. But be aware that the wall is very steep in sections. Horseback Riding Horse trekking trips can be undertaken in several areas of China, including the mountainous area of Songpan in northern Sichuan. Local guides lead treks lasting up to five days. Horse treks can also be taken on the grasslands of the Tibetan Plateau in western Sichuan and in the Goddess Lake area, on the outskirts of the Jiuzhaigou Valley reserve in Sichuan. Tourist camel rides can be taken in the desert dunes near Dunhuang in Gansu province. Jogging Few people jog in China. Go to a park in any town or city early in the morning and many people will be practicing the ancient art of tai chi instead. It is possible to jog in these parks, although some charge an entrance fee. Jogging alongside roads is not a healthy option because of all the pollution from traffic and the danger posed by the mass of bicycles and mopeds when crossing roads. Scuba & Snorkeling The clear, warm waters off Sanya on Hainan Island's southern coast are excellent for scuba diving or snorkeling. The Sanya Coral Reef Nature Reserve, established in 1990, contains approximately 140 different types of hard and soft corals, more than 300 species of fish and a similar number of invertebrates. The best reefs are in Yalong, Xiadonghai and Dadonghai bays. Diving is year-round, and there are diving centers offering lessons. Most sites are a short boat ride away from the beach. The shallow water is ideal for beginners but may not excite more advanced divers. Skiing Another sport few outsiders realize can be enjoyed in China is available is downhill skiing. Yabuli (125 mi/200 km northeast of Harbin) is China's premier ski resort. It hosted the 1996 Asian Games and boasts a 120-day ski season and 11 ski runs, including the longest in Asia, at 3 mi/5 km long. In Sichuan, Xiling Snow Mountain (75 mi/120 km west of Chengdu) is a summer and winter recreation area that has skiing November-March. Mount Emei (100 mi/160 km southwest of Chengdu) has limited downhill and cross-country skiing. In the hills close to Beijing, there are several small ski areas that use artificial snow. Spas and Health Clubs Spas, wellness centers and health clubs can be found in all of China's major cities and in key tourist resort areas. Most are in the luxury five-star hotels that are springing up around the country, with city properties catering mainly to business guests and resort properties appealing to vacationers. Others are at golf and sport complexes. Traditional Chinese treatments are usually supplemented by those from other Asian countries and from the West. There are hot springs with health complexes in several parts of China, including Nantian Hot Springs in Tengqiao on Hainan Island (12.5 mi/20 km from Sanya) and at the base of Mount Emei in Sichuan. Other Options Rock climbing is very popular around Yangshuo in Guangxi. The vertical faces of the many iconic limestone pinnacles (known as karsts) that pepper the landscape between Guilin and Yangshuo make for excellent climbing, and there are numerous marked routes for experienced climbers. Beginners can take courses and tackle easier climbs. For those who want the real deal, the Himalayas offer an unrivaled mountaineering experience. Everest Base Camp (Qomolangma Base Camp), near Tingri in Tibet, is the starting point for expeditions trying to conquer the world's highest mountain. Nearby Rongphu Monastery offers overnight accommodation with views of the mighty peak. Shopping In nearly all cities, your guides will take you to visit the government-run Friendship Stores as part of your tour. Although they may be convenient places to see what's available locally, to look at good examples of the products and to determine what the high end of the price range is, you'll generally find better bargains elsewhere. And the Friendship Stores are about the only place you can't bargain. After your visit to the Friendship Store, visit the private or provincial stores, craft shops and local department stores. The best shopping is often at public markets. If you don't see anything as good, go back to the Friendship Store. As a rule, if you see something you want, buy it when you see it—prices don't vary greatly, but selection does. The real top-of-the-line products are often sold in Hong Kong or are exported. Be aware that stores attached to craft factories (particularly silk factories) and government-run stores in general may be selling damaged goods—examine items carefully before buying them. Shop for carpets, wood-block prints, cloisonne, porcelain, glass items, silk, cinnabar lacquer, hand-painted snuff bottles, stone and jade carvings, books, Mao buttons, reproductions of old art (including sculptures), jewelry, patent medicines, musical instruments, embroidered linens, and acupuncture and calligraphy paraphernalia. Chops (ink seals) and ink stones are also popular. Ethnic tribal crafts are available in the Kunming, Xi'an and Chengdu areas, and in Tibet, anything from Panchen Lama key rings and tiny clay Buddhas to prayer wheels and ornate copper inkwells can be found. If you're buying something that is or looks old, make sure it has an official red seal from the government releasing it for export. Otherwise, it may be confiscated when you depart. In Hong Kong, shopping is a different story. You can buy virtually any consumer item. There are bargains to be had, but keep in mind that not every purchase will be a fantastic deal. To take advantage of Hong Kong, you need to do a little preparation. You should know exactly what you want before you leave home, and you should take note of what it costs at home when it's on sale. When you get to Hong Kong, don't buy unless the item is far enough below the sale price to justify shipping (or carrying) it back—and, possibly, paying import duty. Before handing over any money, make sure that everything works and that all pieces are included. If the item is a brand-name product, make sure that the manufacturer's warranty cards are all there and that serial numbers on the box match those on the product. Hong Kong merchants are not obligated by law to return or exchange items once purchased, so be very sure of what you're buying before paying; you may be able to talk a merchant into an exchange, but you'll never see your money again. Prices vary greatly from store to store, so shop around. Bargaining can be done in smaller shops in the main tourist areas, especially if prices are not marked. (To give you some idea of costs, the Hong Kong Tourist Board publishes recommended retail prices for a wide variety of goods in a number of free pamphlets, including Shopping, Dining & Nightlife, and Sightseeing & Culture.) Cash will usually get you a better price than credit cards. Stores displaying the Hong Kong Tourist Board sticker are generally considered to subscribe to higher ethics and to be of greater reliability than those that don't. If you expect a store to ship your goods for you, make sure it's an HKTB member or the goods may never arrive. Be sure to keep your receipts for customs declaration when you return home. Shop for Chinese-made goods even if you're going to other parts of China, as the quality of what is sold in Hong Kong is often higher than what's sold in the Friendship Stores. Among the better buys in Hong Kong are electronic equipment, glasses and contact lenses (take your prescription from home), gems (if you know what you're doing), silks, perfume, watches and jewelry, ceramics, Asian art, leather goods, antiques, carpets and clothing (including beautifully tailored suits and shirts). Small souvenirs include chopsticks, kung fu and acupuncture paraphernalia, tea, paper items bought in funeral shops, and cloisonne or cinnabar boxes. A word or two about custom tailoring in Hong Kong: Much is made of the fact that a custom suit can be turned out in 24 hours. It can be, and it'll look like it. If you want clothing custom-made, give the tailor as much time as you can, go back for several fittings, and make sure there's time for alterations. Also, check the quality of the material carefully. If some tailors' prices are significantly lower than others, they're likely using a cheaper fabric (for instance, there are several grades of wool sold in Hong Kong). Some people take their own fabric and patterns (tailors may even work from photographs of the desired article). Good tailors will keep your pattern so that you can order again from home—presuming your shape hasn't changed too much. China's rapid economic growth and fast-growing middle class means there is demand for the household and leisure goods taken for granted in the West. Store names familiar back home, such as IKEA, Wal-Mart and Carrefour, can be found in cities throughout China, and others are springing up as international companies vie for a slice of the pie. You'll find many rip-offs of international brands, even down to store names on some of China's most popular shopping streets, as counterfeiting has long been a huge industry in China. However, the government has finally started to take action and prosecute local companies breaching internationally registered trade names and copyrights. Even local markets popular with tourists because of their fake designer-name goods have been forced to close. In Beijing, the old Silk Market, notorious for cheap knockoffs, was shut down and replaced by a more sanitized indoor market with traders only allowed to sell legitimate goods. Likewise, Shanghai's infamous Xi'angyang market—where you could buy anything from fake Gucci, Prada and other designer labels to copies of the latest Nike and Callaway golf clubs—was closed in a crackdown by authorities. However, the enterprising traders will always find somewhere else to ply their trade. Established markets are well worth seeking out to look for bargain buys. Among the most fascinating is Beijing's Panjiayuan Market, where you can find crafts on sale from all over China as well as souvenirs, handmade jewelry, and secondhand items—even traditional Chinese marionettes. Outside the market, you may see an old man kicking a brightly-colored shuttlecock, a traditional Chinese game in which participants have to stop it from hitting the ground. He's a trader as well, of course, and simply wants to sell his homemade shuttlecocks (painted feathers stuck into a plastic cap and weighted by rusty washers). Major stores and other shops selling a good selection of fashion and leisure items can be found along shopping streets in key cities. The most well-known in Beijing is Wanfujing, which is close to Tiananmen Square and has food markets selling all kinds of dishes for the adventurous at either end. Shanghai has Nanjing Road and other stores in the old French Concession area as well as touristy emporia in the Yu Gardens Bazaar. Guangzhou has many shops and stores along Zhongshan Five-Road and Beijing Road. Shopping Hours: Monday-Sunday 9 am-7 pm. Itinerary Day By Day Few people have the time or money to see all of China on one trip, and it's probably best that no one tries. Though great strides have been made to accommodate tourists, China is still not the easiest country to visit. On the other hand, it's a long way to travel for just a week of touring, so we recommend a minimum of two weeks. The following itinerary is a good introduction to China. Day 1—Arrive Shanghai. Days 2-3—Shanghai. Day 4—Day trip to Suzhou. Day 5—Early flight to Beijing. Day 6—Beijing. Day 7—Day trip to the Great Wall and Ming Tombs. Day 8—Fly to Xi'an. Day 9—Xi'an. Day 10—Fly to Guilin. Day 11—Guilin. Day 12—Fly to Guangzhou. Day 13—Guangzhou. Day 14—Depart China. For the traveler with more endurance, we'd recommend the following 21-day trip: Day 1—Arrive Beijing. Days 2-4—Beijing (including a day trip to the Great Wall and Ming Tombs). Day 5—Fly to Xi'an. Day 6—Xi'an. Day 7—Fly to Lhasa. Days 8 and 9—Lhasa. Day 10—Gyantse. Day 11—Lhasa. Day 12—Fly to Chengdu. Day 13—Fly to Guilin. Day 14—Guilin (city tour or Li River day-trip cruise to Yangshuo). Day 15—Fly to Shanghai. Day 16—Shanghai. Day 17—Day trip to Suzhou. Day 18—Express train to Hangzhou. Day 19—Hangzhou. Day 20—Fly to Guangzhou. Day 21—Depart China. Because Hong Kong is a special blend of East and West, it can ease the transition for travelers going from China to the West or vice versa. It's never a bad idea to plan one or two days in Hong Kong at one end of a China itinerary. Travelers who have seen all of the above may wish to see China west of Xi'an by traveling the Silk Road (Lanzhou, Dunhuang, Turpan, Urumqi and Kashgar). If you have time, you may also want to extend your stays in Chengdu and Guilin by a day or two to allow further exploration of the cities and the fascinating areas around them. Another option would be to add Yunnan capital Kunming for two or three days, providing the opportunity to experience the rich culture of the province's minorities and some of its scenic glories. DINING Dining Overview The variety of Chinese cuisines can be thrilling. There are eight major cuisine schools: Anhui and Shandong in the north; Fujian, Jiangsu (also called Huaiyang) and Zhejiang in the east; Cantonese in the south; and Sichuan and Hunan in the west. It's important to understand that Chinese cooking in China is different from Chinese food served in the West. It's not uncommon, for instance, to find the chicken's head, feet and sundry vitals floating in the soup tureen or to be served an entire fish, complete with eyeballs and scales. And its important to take a few precautions while you eat as well: Chew your rice carefully, as it often has grit in it; chew meat such as chicken carefully (bones are often cut up into the food rather than removed); and prepare yourself to see those bones being spit out by the Chinese onto tablecloths or the floor (it's considered perfectly acceptable). In some smaller cities, you'll be ushered into a special room for foreign guests, which is a mixed blessing. It's quieter, cleaner and less smoky, but it's also less colorful and more expensive for the same food. If you politely insist to the waiter that you want to eat with the masses, you'll usually be allowed to. Ask if the chef has a specialty. In rural areas and Tibet, where the language barrier seems impenetrable, you may be invited to the kitchen to point at what you want. A few Tibetan words might help you along: cha (butter tea), thukpa (noodle soup), tsampa (roasted barley flour) or momo (vegetable- or meat-filled dumplings). In many restaurants, food is put on dishes on the table for everyone to share. Large round tables for six or more people will have a large glass lazy Susan, so you just rotate it until the dish you want is within reach. You will have a small plate to use if you don't want to eat directly from the community dishes. Steamed rice, if ordered, is normally served near the end of the meal. Tell your server if you want it sooner. Fried rice is a main course. If a large portion of food is put on the table and you're the only one there, don't feel obliged to eat everything in the serving bowl. Some of the food may be intended for guests who have yet to arrive. If you are invited to a Chinese home, remember that eating everything is impolite—it implies the host didn't prepare enough food. Be sure to try Cantonese dim sum, a breakfast or lunch of small dishes. Waiters or waitresses push carts loaded with steaming bamboo baskets or plates with food. (In the northern part of the country, this meal is called jiao zi—dumplings—and is served without the push carts.) To order, just wave them over and point to what you want. (Don't feel you need to fill up from one cart—another will be along soon enough with something different.) Other restaurants may give you a card on which you mark your choices. Some of our favorite dim sum dishes are: ha gow (shrimp dumplings), cha siu bau (steamed barbecue pork bun), lao mai kai (sticky rice with egg, pork and mushroom) and sin chok kuen (pancakes stuffed with vegetables). More adventuresome eaters could try mongo pohding (mango pudding), satay yao yu (skewered squid) or au to (beef stomach). If the waiter offers you coconut cake, be aware that it's not a baked cake, but rather a square, firm pudding that's very refreshing. We've eaten at the food stalls in big cities without ill effect, but use your best judgment—if things don't appear clean, eat elsewhere. Those things that look like oversized cherries pierced by a wooden stick and sold on the street are haw—glazed crab apples. Don't eat from the food carted down the aisles of the trains; local vendors selling their goods through the windows during stops have food that's more reliably fresh. China's regional cuisines vary enormously in the way the food is prepared and often in the types of ingredients used. In the north, Mongolian hotpot (similar to a fondue in which meat, vegetables and even solidified duck blood are cooked in a simmering pot in the center of the table) is a particular favorite. Beijing duck (or Peking duck) is another and one more familiar with Western visitors. Seafood is a key menu item in eastern cuisines, which are noted for their subtle and delicate flavorings. Buddha jumps over the wall is the strange name for a popular eastern dish which comprises soup or stew with meat, seafood and other ingredients. Late September-December is the season for hairy crab, using the Chinese mitten crab which has become an invasive pest in North America and Europe but is a delicacy in Shanghai and other eastern and southern areas. Sichuan is famed for its spicy flavors, using a lot of chilies and peppers. But the food is not all fiery. Wild vegetables and herbs are used in many dishes. Typical dishes include Ma Po doufu, a spicy mix of tofu (bean curd) and minced pork that literally translates to "pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd," after the old woman who originated it. Although not one of China's celebrated cuisines, Yunnan has a very distinctive dish worth trying called guo qiaomian (across the bridge noodles). It is a bit like a fondue but in a bowl with piping hot soup, into which are placed raw meats, fish and noodles to cook. In Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, you'll find nearly every type of food, from Continental to McDonald's and pizza. There are even reasonable versions of a Jewish deli. In Macau, you won't find the variety of restaurants that Hong Kong has, but you can get good Chinese, Portuguese, Macanese, Indonesian, Thai, Italian, Vietnamese, Japanese and Continental meals. Macanese food has a few distinctive dishes, including minche (ground pork with potatoes) and spicy African chicken (in a rich peanut sauce). Because of the mix of cultures, you'll come across restaurants with names like Casa Lee Fung Noodle Shop. SECURITY Etiquette China continues to evolve in ways that are bringing it in closer contact with the rest of the world. Nonetheless, the country remains a place where business travelers need to tread carefully. Appointments—You will need to establish local contacts before journeying to China. Begin by contacting the department of your government that deals with international business (the U.S. Department of Commerce, for instance). It can put you in touch with business and government personnel in China. Once in the country, remember that punctuality on the part of all parties is very important (for both business and social occasions). If you are late, it not only reflects badly on yourself; it can also be perceived as a slight that can put the whole business relationship into question. Personal Introductions—Handshaking is now the norm, accompanied by a slight nod of the head or a slight bow. Maintain a formal demeanor during introductions. Official titles are important. When the person has no official title, use standard English titles unless you are fluent in Mandarin: "Mr.," "Ms." (unmarried female) and "Madam" (married female—the title should accompany her maiden name). The Chinese typically have two or three names: The first is the family name, and that's the one that should be paired with the title (thus, Mao Zedong is referred to as Chairman Mao). Your business cards should have English on one side and a Chinese translation on the other. Treat the business cards you receive with respect and leave them on the table in front of you during the meeting for reference. At the end of the meeting, place the cards in a wallet or holder in your jacket pocket, not in a wallet that you put in a pocket. Negotiating—Business meetings begin with a short interval of polite conversation of a general nature, usually over tea or drinks. Hard-driving, get-right-to-the-point tactics usually backfire. Negotiations will typically be protracted and involved. Multiple meetings on the same issues are not unusual. Expect the unexpected, and do not be thrown by last-minute complexities or demands. If you have a deadline, do not reveal it. The host may signal the end of a meeting by offering more tea. The correct response is to decline the offer and say that you are ready to leave. If the host thanks you for coming, that, too, is a clue that the meeting is over. Business Entertaining—Evening banquets are often extravagant affairs with many courses and often exotic foods. Expect many toasts throughout the evening, often with Chinese liquor (baijiu). If you do not drink or are among the many foreigners who don't enjoy its taste, politely decline by toasting with your tea or other drink. Business is usually not discussed at large banquets. At other business meals, it is appropriate to discuss business if your host initiates the discussion. Body Language—Observe a very formal body posture. Refrain from touching, and keep gestures to an absolute minimum. Gift Giving—On the whole, gift giving in business is not common, and caution should be exercised. Gifts given to an entire group or company usually get a better response than those given to an individual. Do not bestow the gifts until negotiations have been completed. It is common to be given a gift as a gesture of friendship and goodwill by Chinese hosts. If you receive a gift, do not unwrap it until you are out of the presence of the giver. A small token from your home country is often a good idea to give in return, especially if you are invited to someone's home for a meal. The color of a gift and its wrapping paper have great significance. Two good choices are red (the color of luck) and yellow (the color of prosperity). Avoid items and wrappings that are white because that color is associated with funerals. Clocks of any color can have the same connotation. And never give a green hat as a gift. It will cause great offense, as wearing a green hat is a public sign that the wearer's partner is having an extramarital affair. Conversation—Avoid politics, especially such sensitive issues as Tibet, Taiwan, the Communist Party or Tiananmen Square. Regardless of your acquaintances' real feelings, they will most likely not be comfortable expressing themselves to you and certainly not in public. History, family and Chinese culture are all good topics. Be careful if you compliment someone on their possessions. An article of clothing or a home decoration you comment on favorably may be offered to you—don't accept. Personal Safety Except for isolated reports of banditry in the rural areas, travel outside of the cities is safe. The cities, too, are safe. The biggest threat to travelers is petty crime near areas frequented by tourists (hotels, restaurants and transportation sites). Keep an eye on personal items such as purses and pocketbooks. Do not leave bags unzipped and showing anything that might be tempting. Unfortunately, even China is not immune from opportunistic pickpockets and bag snatchers. In busy tourist areas and at popular attractions, it is especially important to watch your things. Do not put bags down, even for a few seconds, or they are likely to disappear. Reporting thefts to the local Public Security Bureau is a very long, drawn-out affair with endless paperwork. You will need an interpreter with you, and you will probably have to return at last once more to pick up the paperwork needed for insurance claims. And even if you can persuade an officer to go with you back to the scene of the crime, chances are the perpetrators will be long gone—and there will be a stony silence if traders or other locals are asked if they saw anything. Once you lose any possessions, do not expect to see them again. You need to be just as vigilant on public transport. Crowded long-distance buses are notorious for petty crime, as are the open sleeper compartments of trains. In some cities, you may find yourself being targeted by beggars if you walk alone or in small groups, especially at night. While they are more an annoyance than a threat, they can be quite aggressive and an encounter can be an unpleasant experience that could sour or even ruin an otherwise enjoyable vacation. Avoid dimly-lit areas or places off the beaten track in cities if you go for a walk. However, such instances are happily still uncommon rather than the norm. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency. Health Many visitors develop respiratory problems because of polluted air, high altitude, cold weather and the stress that comes with travel. Currently, immunization against polio, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis are recommended, though not required—consult your physician. Also ask your doctor about malaria suppressants if you will be visiting Hainan Island and areas close to the Laotian and Myanmar borders. Take along insect repellent and clothing to cover arms and legs. Take along all prescription and over-the-counter medicine needed for the trip as well. Rabies is endemic in China, and there are a number of cases of humans being infected by dog bites each year. However, these are invariably in rural areas. When it happens in populated areas, authorities generally embark on a cull of stray dogs. Avian flu outbreaks have been reported in several areas of China since it first appeared in Asia in 2004. Bilharzia and Japanese encephalitis also occur in rural areas, and southern China has had several outbreaks of dengue fever in recent years. Take diarrhea medication with you, especially if you plan to try any snack food from street vendors. Chinese cooking methods are good at killing bugs and you may find that you can quite happily eat street food with no ill effects, but hygiene standards are likely to be less stringent than in restaurants. Note: Be aware that RH negative and O type bloods are not commonly stored in China. Also, China has had problems screening its blood supply to prevent the spread of HIV, and any blood products must be viewed with skepticism. In Hong Kong and Macau, sanitary conditions are much higher than in the rest of China. Outside of Hong Kong, do not drink the tap water. (Stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks.) Most hotel rooms come equipped with a thermos of boiled water for tea. Major cities in China have excellent joint-venture hospitals, clinics and emergency centers with all the latest facilities and Western treatments. Chinese hospitals are under severe pressure these days from rising costs and under-investment. Standards and facilities in general wards leave much to be desired, but many do have VIP wards or departments where foreign nationals are treated. The Chinese are experts at using natural treatments such as herbs and plants as medicinal cures, and this is often combined with traditional treatment methods including reflexology, acupuncture and massage. Some hospitals have outpatients' departments or clinics noted for their traditional treatments and medicines, such as the Guilin Hospital of Sino-Western Medicine. Pharmacies are everywhere in China. Those in large cities may sell a selection of Western medications as well as Chinese herbal remedies. Antibiotics are also available but require a prescription now. Tibet presents its own problems: Going from Xi'an or Chengdu (450 ft/140 m) to Lhasa (12,000 ft/3,660 m) in a few hours may cause altitude sickness. Symptoms include nausea, headaches, insomnia, dizziness and chest pains. A mild case may be gone in a day, or it can linger for weeks. Rest and aspirin seem to help, but altitude sickness can have serious complications, so report your symptoms to your tour leader or a doctor. A local tea, available from shops and restaurants, is reputed to help you acclimate to the altitude if drunk over a few days. (Altitude sickness can be fatal, so you may be required to return to lower altitudes.) For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency. Dos & Don'ts Don't be surprised if you're stared at in public places. For many rural Chinese (including those who have recently moved to major cities), it's unusual to encounter Westerners. Do expect to see people spitting and blowing their noses onto the ground (without a handkerchief). These are accepted practices in China. Do write down numbers when discussing them. In Chinese, it's easy to confuse, say, 50 (wu shi) with 15 (shi wu). Likewise, when an English speaker says 16, it may be interpreted as 60. And do learn to count to 10 in Chinese. This will be helpful when shopping because Western hand signals for numbers are completely different (for example, a forefinger and thumb outstretched means eight). Do try and speak a little of the local language—Mandarin in most of China and Cantonese in Guangdong and Hong Kong. They are notoriously difficult to learn and master. However, a simple xie xie (thank you) or ni hao (hello) will break the ice and invariably produce smiles and friendly laughter. Don't raise your voice or get angry, even if you feel you have been wronged. Such behavior is considered rude and uncivilized in China. Try to have a reasoned argument rather than losing your cool. Do take the address of the hotel where you are staying with you, written in Chinese characters, so that you can show a taxi driver. Few speak or can read English, even in Beijing and Shanghai. If you are taking a taxi from the hotel, get the concierge to write down your destination for you. Some hotels have cards listing major attractions in the city in English and Chinese on one side, and the hotel address on the other. Do look to the right before getting off of a bus. Many bicycle riders riding between the bus and curb do not stop for exiting bus passengers. Do take along your own toilet paper—you never know when you may need it. In restaurants, you are often given small packets of paper tissues instead of napkins. Always take them and keep them with you in your bag or pocket as emergency toilet paper. Do stock up on extra medicine for stomach ailments. If you are prone to chest problems, such as asthma, take enough medication to last your trip. A spare course of antibiotics might be an idea to take as well. Do bargain aggressively—prices quoted to foreign visitors are often grossly inflated. HOTELS Hotel Overview Hotels throughout China range from deluxe to very simple dorm rooms. Tourist hotels offer a variety of Western amenities (everything from putting greens and bowling alleys to business centers and fitness rooms). Some of the less-expensive hotels often lock the front doors at around 11 pm. If you are locked out, bang on the door and the night watchman will let you in. Except in high-end accommodations, travelers should expect to pay more than Chinese citizens. Inquire if your hotel accepts credit cards (some do and then add a surcharge). In fact, don't be surprised to see taxes and surcharges added to your bill for every amenity or service, no matter what method of payment is used. In areas such as Inner Mongolia and Tibet, accommodations can be simple, government-run rooming houses. It's even possible to arrange an overnight stay in a Tibetan yak-hair tent or a Mongolian yurt. In Hong Kong, Beijing, Guangzhou, Macau, Hainan and Shanghai, accommodations range from deluxe hotels to dives, guesthouses and flats. Because there are plenty of good hotels, first decide where you want to be (Kowloon or Hong Kong Island, for instance). The deluxe Peninsula, built in 1928, deserves mention as an enduring classic built in the grand old tradition. But it's not the only fine hotel. Hong Kong probably has more highly rated and award-winning deluxe hotels than any other city in the world. Shanghai has seen an explosion of high-end properties as it is the engine room of China's economic boom. Many business hotels offer executive floors where just about every creature comfort is provided, together with dedicated lounges, generally at roof-top level. You can even get whisked from the airport to the Pudong Shangri-La, China's largest five-star hotel, in the comfort of a Rolls-Royce Phantom. And guests staying in rooms on in its executive floor are provided with binoculars and an illustrated map of buildings along The Bund, the historic waterfront buildings on the opposite side of the Huangpu River. Visitors who want luxury with a personal touch but in an intimate setting can try some of the upscale boutique-hotels that are now appearing in several parts of China. Some are in the center of towns and cities or close to attractions like the Great Wall, while others are in rural locations. FACTS Geostats Passport/Visa Requirements: A passport and visa are required for citizens of Canada and the U.S. A departure tax is now included in the cost of airline tickets. Although there are only a few places in China that are forbidden to tourists, do not attempt to visit an off-limits city without permission. If you have any questions, ask the local Public Security Bureau. Probably the most popular area that requires a permit is Tibet (obtainable through many travel agencies). A yellow-fever certificate is required for mainland China if you're arriving from an infected area. Certificates are not required if only visiting Hong Kong or Macau. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 1,313,973,713. Languages: Putonghua (or Mandarin) is the most common language, though it has several dialects. In Hong Kong, people speak Cantonese and English.. Predominant Religions: Officially atheist, but Buddhists, Taoists, Lamaists, Muslims and Christians still practice.. Time Zone: 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Telephone Codes: 86, country code; 10,city code for Beijing; 21,city code for Shanghai; 852,city code for Hong Kong; Money Currency Exchange The Renminbi, or People's Currency, is mainland China's currency and is known as the yuan. It is generally written down as RMB or a capital Y with a bar through it (¥). It is divided into 10 jiao and 100 fen. The yuan was tied to the dollar, but as a result of growing complaints about it being overvalued, it was revalued in 2005 and given a broader range of movement against a basket of international currencies. Both Hong Kong and Macau have their own currencies (HK dollar and pataca, respectively). Hong Kong has been a Special Administrative Region of China since July 1997, Macau since December 1999. Autonomy for both was guaranteed for a period of 50 years through a "one country, two systems" policy, under which both will continue to retain their individual currencies. You cannot change your money into Chinese currency before you arrive. It is a good idea to take traveler's checks, but changing money in China can be done at international airports, major banks and at hotels that cater to international guests. The exchange rate will not be as good at hotels, but if you need money quickly, that may be the most convenient option. You can also withdraw money in local currency from ATMs using major internationally recognized credit and debit cards. A charge is generally levied for transactions. ATMs are becoming more widespread, and you can often find them in large hotels, shopping malls, airports and at large bank branches. Away from big cities, they are harder to track down, so if you are traveling from a city to rural areas, withdraw enough cash before leaving. Credit cards are accepted in most large hotels. Some restaurants and large stores may also accept them. However, cash is king outside cities, and few places will take payment by credit cards. If you do have a lot of cash, only take enough for what you will need on that day when you leave the hotel. Deposit the rest in a safe in your room (many hotels have them now) or at the front desk. Carry the remaining cash in a money belt. Taxes An airport-construction fee is levied on all departing passengers from mainland China (currently 90RMB for international flights and 50RMB for domestic flights), now included as part of the ticket price. Hotels typically levy a 15% service charge to bills. Tipping In Hong Kong, tip 10%. In the rest of China, don't tip as a general rule. Most upscale hotels will add a 15% service charge to your restaurant bill. Waiters in hotel restaurants may expect a tip from Western diners, and porters in top-notch hotels will certainly hope for one. Weather We prefer seeing northern China during September and October, and southern China and Hong Kong in November and December. China's climate is one of extremes—hot summers in most parts of the country, bitter winters in the north and comfortable winters in the south. Winters in China can feel colder because the heating is never quite right (either too cold or too hot), but gloriously thick quilts and thermoses of hot water are provided everywhere, even in cheaper hotels and on trains. Spring rains can make southern cities (especially Guilin and Guangzhou) dreadfully humid. Sandstorms can be a problem in the north (including Beijing) in April. Tibet can be bitter cold, even in the autumn and late spring. If you don't take enough warm clothing in the winter, you can easily find practical cold-weather gear in most areas of China (though stocks are limited in Tibet). What to Wear China has such a vast contrast of climates, you need to consider carefully where you are visiting and at what time of year when choosing what to pack. If you are traveling to southern China, you should take long sleeves and pants to fend off mosquitoes at any time of the year. Elsewhere, mosquitoes are only likely to be a problem from late spring to fall. At high altitudes or away from southern China, long sleeves and pants will help you keep warm. Take extra layers as well, so that you can remove or add them as necessary. A sweater or light jacket will also help keep you warm on cooler evenings, even in summer. If you are visiting areas that experience extreme heat (such as northern China's deserts, the Yangtze River or southern China in summer) pack lightweight cotton clothes. Take a hat and always put on plenty of sunscreen to avoid sun exposure, especially at higher elevations where the sun's rays are much stronger. Business meetings require conservative business suits with a tie. For less formal occasions, smart casual dress with an open collar is usually acceptable. Dress up and go Shanghai chic with the locals for a night on the town in China's most cosmopolitan city. And take smart evening wear for dining out in upscale restaurants or going to the theater, opera or nightclub (or a casino in Macau). Women should dress modestly in public, especially when visiting temples and monasteries. Shorts are a good option to wear on the beach and when it is hot in other parts of the country, but men should also cover up if visiting religious buildings. Communication Telephone Pay phones are widely available throughout China. There are kiosks on sidewalks and in airports, railway stations and shopping centers. Shops in smaller towns popular with tourists may also display signs to show calls may be made inside. Phones generally take prepaid phone cards, which can be bought from a number of outlets including stores and post offices. Calls within China can be made with an IC card, while international calls require long-distance IP cards. The cards have easy-to-follow instructions, usually in English as well as in Chinese. To call from China, you need to dial 00 and then the country code and area/city code, excluding the initial 0. Local calls are free, and you do not need to dial the city code, but be aware that hotels may add a charge per call. Rates for overseas calls made from hotels are also subject to surcharges. Cell phone coverage is very good in China's cities, major tourist areas and throughout much of the country. Don't be surprised if you are at the top of a mountain in deepest China and you hear a shrill version of Auld Lang Syne, one of the most popular ring tones. Officially, about 30% of the country has cell phone coverage. Roaming agreements with international networks mean cell phones from overseas will generally be able to make and receive calls. Internet Access Most large tourist and business hotels provide Internet service, many of them offering broadband access. Upscale properties may have wireless access in guest rooms, while others will generally have cable connections. Smaller hotels may only have the Internet available by the front desk, in which case a machine for guest use is usually provided. Other hotels also usually have a PC in the lobby for guest use. Broadband speeds are a little slower than in other countries but acceptable. Where there is no broadband available, you can get online via dial-up connection. Towns and cities across China have very cheap dial-up access using dedicated local numbers. Check with your hotel. It should be able to provide you with one or more numbers. Hotels providing broadband may offer it free, but generally there is a daily charge to connect, in line with international hotels in other parts of the world. There are Internet cafes with inexpensive access in towns and cities throughout China. Internet censorship is applied, however, and sites considered to be against China's national interest are blocked. These include several major international news organizations. Google has drawn international criticism for agreeing to apply self-censorship in China. Mail & Package Services China's postal service is efficient and a good value. Sending a letter or postcard is easy, and it will normally arrive at overseas destinations in less than a week. Most large hotels have postal facilities for sending mail and small parcels. For other items, you need to go to a post office, where you can buy packaging and a box to fit so you can send them via international Express Mail Service. Parcels may take much longer, especially if they are opened for customs inspection (you need to fill out a customs declaration form at the post office and include the receipt if it is a new item). For quicker, but more expensive, delivery use international carrier services such as FedEx, TNT, DHL or UPS. Newspapers & Magazines The major Chinese-language newspapers are People's Daily (which also has editions in English and other languages), Guangming Daily and Economic Daily, while China Daily is the main English-language newspaper. You can also find English-language China editions of international publications such as Newsweek and the International Herald Tribune. English-language business magazines include China Business Weekly, China Economic Review and China International Business, which are national publications, and Shanghai Business Review. Among regional English-language newspapers are Shanghai Daily and Hong Kong's China Morning Post and The Standard. Listings and reviews of restaurant, nightlife and entertainment are carried by English-language magazines freely distributed in China's major cities. Among the largest are That's Beijing and That's Shanghai. Both cities also have Metrozine (monthly) and City Weekend (biweekly) along with a host of others, including Shanghai Talk, Shanghai Scene, Beijing Talk and Beijing Today. Transportation Capital International Airport (PEK) is 20 mi/30 km northeast of Beijing (http://www.bcia.com.cn). A new terminal is under construction and due to open by the end of 2007, in time for the 2008 Olympics. A direct rail link from the airport to Beijing's center opens in 2008. Pudong International Airport (PVG) is 20 mi/30 km southeast of Shanghai (http://www.shanghaiairport.com). Hong Kong International Airport (KHG) is about 20 mi/30 km from the city (http://www.hongkongairport.com). Domestic service is available to all major cities on a variety of airlines. It used to be difficult for independent travelers in China to book internal flights. The situation has improved dramatically, but it may be that some travelers (not on prearranged tours) will be unable to book return flights from more remote destinations until they actually get there. Travelers may still have to rely on the old method—dashing to the local airline office immediately upon arrival to purchase a return ticket. Check with carriers before departure. If you're on a prearranged tour, this warning doesn't apply. Trains with steam locomotives, which once operated around the country, have all but disappeared. Generally, domestic train tickets can be bought only in China, although some tickets may be booked through Chinese travel agencies in North America. If you're traveling on your own, it's impossible to make advance reservations for a train departing any city other than the one you're in. In other words, if you want to go from Shanghai to Beijing and back, you must buy the return ticket in Beijing. It may also be difficult to get same-day or day-after reservations unless you're traveling soft berth (the four classes are soft berth, hard berth, soft seat and hard seat). Soft berth provides a chance to travel in style—semiprivate rooms, lace curtains on the windows, slippers and preferential treatment in the dining car—but it costs almost as much as flying. Hard berth isn't much harder, but there's no privacy, and it may be difficult to get a seat for meals. If you can't book a hard- or soft-berth ticket in time for your departure, it's sometimes possible to buy a hard seat and upgrade with the conductor after the train departs. Be prepared to pay a premium, as the ultimate price is up to the conductor. If you end up riding in a hard seat overnight, be sure to keep a close eye on your valuables: Professional thieves may be riding with you. Remember the golden rule: Always book as early as possible. Major cities have special booking offices for foreign independent travelers who are going by rail. You pay a small premium but get first choice on tickets. The office in Beijing is in the main train station; in Shanghai, it's just up the street from the Peace Hotel. Outside the major cities, it's usually worthwhile to work through a local travel service, which can prebook tickets in other cities (if they have an office there), as well as help cut through the red tape. Don't throw away your train ticket: You usually will be asked to show it as you leave the station. Your hotel can usually help make these arrangements for you. Intercity buses tend to be uncomfortable (most Chinese are a lot smaller than most tourists), although they have improved in recent years with the opening of many four-lane expressways. They are recommended for the experienced or unusually tolerant traveler. Avoid sitting in the back of the bus at all costs, especially on rough roads where you'll be bounced around mercilessly. Some bus routes have been privatized, which has led to some perks and some problems. Perks include sleeper seats on some long-distance buses (usually cheap airplane seats laid flat). The biggest problem is that, regardless of schedules, conductors don't like to leave until the bus is full. Don't be surprised if your bus leaves the station and then drives around the city for several hours trying to lure more passengers. Be extremely careful of theft on overnight buses. Whether you travel by boat, train or bus, it's a good idea to stock up on snack foods. Shops at stations and ports sell bottled water, fresh fruit, peanuts and candy. Buses in most large cities are overcrowded. Taxis are available—there's now such a surplus of them that you can hail them from the street (although in Shanghai they can be notoriously difficult to get, especially at peak times or if it is raining); they also queue up at tourist hotels. Unfortunately, taxi drivers don't always calculate fares honestly—it may be better to settle on a fare before getting in. (Often just pointing at the meter will persuade the driver to use it, which gives you at least a chance of a correct fare. Insist on it. But check that the meter has not already racked up a hefty fare before you start your journey if you get a taxi from airports or railways stations.) Some cities have licensed bicycle rickshaw (pedicab) drivers; they're slow and expensive but fun for a short trip. And in most cities, you can rent a bike. (Don't worry if it breaks down—there's a repair stand at almost every intersection.) Several cities have subways (Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Wuhan, Shenzhen, Nanjing and Tianjin), although routes can be rather limited. You can rent a car in Shanghai and Beijing, but it must be driven by someone with a Chinese driver's license. For More Information Tourist Offices Canada: China National Tourist Office, 480 University Ave., Suite 806, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2. Phone 416-599-6636. Fax 416-599-6382. http://www.tourismchina.org. U.S.: China National Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 6413, New York, NY 10118. Phone 212-760-8218. Toll-free 888-760-8218. Fax 212-760-8809. http://www.cnto.org. Chinese Embassies Canada: Embassy of China, 515 St. Patrick St., Box 8935, Ottawa, ON K1N 5H3. Phone 613-789-3434. Fax 613-789-1414. http://www.chinaembassycanada.org. U.S.: Embassy of China, 2300 Connecticut Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-328-2500. Fax 202-328-0032. http://www.china-embassy.org. Foreign Embassies in China Canadian Embassy, 19 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chao Yang District, Beijing 100600. Phone 86-10-6532-3536. Fax 86-10-6532-4311. http://www.canada.org.cn. U.S. Embassy, 3 Xiu Shui Beiie, Beijing 100600. Phone 86-10-6532-3831. Fax 86-10-6532-5141. http://www.usembassy-china.org.cn. Recommended Guidebooks China by Damian Harper et al (Lonely Planet). Hong Kong & Macau by Steve Fallon (Lonely Planet). Beijing and Shanghai: China's Hottest Cities by Steven Schwankert, Paul Mooney, Peter Hibbard (Odyssey Illustrated Guide). The Insider's Guide to Beijing. Edited by Adam Pillsbury (True Run Media). Trekking in Tibet: A Traveler's Guide by Gary McCue (The Mountaineers). Additional Reading Wild Swans by Jung Chang (HarperPerennial). A powerful nonfiction account of the turbulent lives of three generations of Chinese women. The Search for Modern China by Jonathan Spence (Norton). A standard work of modern Chinese history. Kowloon Tong: A Novel of Hong Kong by Paul Theroux (Mariner Books). A Western-centered novel about the people left out in the cold during the transition of Hong Kong to Chinese sovereignty. The Lost Daughters of China by Karin Evans (Tarcher).