Introduction A trip to India is an all-out assault on the senses. You'll travel through dusty heat (or snowy cold in the north), sharing roads with a parade of bicycles, auto-rickshaws, sputtering motorcycles, tinsel-draped trucks, camel carts and the occasional cow. At India's sights and markets, the chaos continues: throngs of beggars, hawkers, tourists, near-naked holy men, businesspeople, children and scurrying monkeys. Amid the cacophony, some of the globe's most majestic and historical sights will emerge—the Taj Mahal, the Ganges and the Himalayas. India, with all its variety, feels more like a series of countries strung together than a cohesive whole. As you move from region to region, you'll be exposed to dramatic changes in cuisine, dress, language, religion, custom and tradition. Some parts of the country are rife with modern conveniences, and Indians there live in fashionable real estate, surrounded by the trappings of 21st-century consumer capitalism. The growth of the economy is due, in part, to a burgeoning communications industry. Malls, multiplexes and lifestyle stores are opening all over. Yet in some areas, people still don't have access to clean water, electricity, adequate food and medical care. Many people, attracted to cities in search of jobs, stay in clumsy shacks because of unaffordable real estate, resulting in slum regions. This is especially prevalent in India's commercial capital, Mumbai, where the government is building multistoried housing complexes to accommodate these people. With these contradictions come complications. The mass of humanity that populates India requires that you be patient, flexible and tolerant, which can be difficult if you're troubled by the disparities between India's rigid social classes. The country's religious conflicts and ongoing dispute with Pakistan are also concerns, though these events have been largely confined to certain regions. Most travelers will find these difficulties well worth the rewards, however: India remains an incomparable travel experience. The tsunamis that struck most of Southeast Asia in December 2004 caused widespread damage to coastal areas in southern India. Regions hardest hit were the states of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Kerala, as well as the Andaman and Nicobar islands in the Bay of Bengal. At least 10,000 people died, and entire villages were destroyed. Local tribal groups who sensed the forthcoming tsunami fled ahead of the incident. Because of the extent of the damage and the difficulty in reaching remote areas, total recovery is expected to be slow. The remote Andaman and Nicobar islands got world attention because of the tsunami. Relief aid and its utilization have created many new jobs in the region, and daily life is mostly back to normal. Geography India shares borders with Pakistan, China, Nepal, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Bhutan. At its southernmost tip is Sri Lanka. The Himalayas rise out of the north, the Indian Ocean surrounds the southern portions, the Bay of Bengal in the east and the Arabian Sea to the west make India a peninsula. The fabled Ganges, the holiest and one of the most important rivers in India, originates in the northern Himalayas and flows into huge, flat plains. The plains run into the Deccan Plateau in the south. The western Ghats, made up of the Sahyadri Mountain Range, runs parallel to the coastal Konkan region and separates the west coast from the high plateau of Deccan. So vast and varied is India that if you don't remind yourself, you may believe you've passed into another country when you've merely crossed state boundaries. Though somewhat arbitrary distinctions, India is often divided into four regions. The north includes Delhi, Punjab and neighboring states; the magnificent Himalayas; agrarian regions and a distinctive nomadic desert lifestyle. The east is made up of Kolkata (Calcutta), Orissa and other states. The west, which consists of Mumbai (Bombay), Goa and other states, is home to the Western Ghats (a steplike mountain chain), verdant forests and sun-kissed beaches. Separated from the north by the Vindhya Mountain Range, the south comprises Chennai (Madras), Bangalore, Hyderabad, Thiruvananthapuram (the new name for Trivandrum, capital of Kerala state) and much of the nation's coastline. History India's long history includes a succession of kingdoms and empires and an often-volatile mixture of religions and cultures. Hinduism, the world's oldest-surviving religion, and Buddhism, established in the sixth century BC, both grew out of the region, though Hinduism has had the greater influence on India. Beginning in the AD 700s, Islam spread to the Indian subcontinent. Muslim rulers first took control of India in the 1100s, and the Islamic Mughal empire (1526-1738) had a lasting impact on the area. Although a sizable Muslim population developed, Hindus remained in the majority. European powers began vying for colonial control of India in the 1600s, with the British eventually gaining the upper hand. They ruled most of India until after World War II, when a movement led by Mohandas Gandhi and others finally won independence. As the British exited, the region was partitioned into predominantly Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan. The 1947 partition provoked the greatest exodus in human history as 10 million people changed sides—Muslims fleeing west toward Pakistan and Hindus and Sikhs traveling east into India. Terrible mob violence set the scene for more than 50 years of mutual hostility and suspicion—between 250,000 and 500,000 people were slaughtered before the partition was completed. India and Pakistan have fought three major wars, including one in 1971 that led to the creation of Bangladesh, and troops continue to fire at each other over the border almost daily. Constant threats of incursion and sabotage have led both countries to expend large proportions of federal resources on their militaries, and both countries now possess nuclear weapons. However, new transport connections by way of buses and trains between the two countries has reduced tensions in the region. India has made great strides in other areas. It has remained a democracy—despite its turbulent and often-violent politics, including the assassination of two prime ministers. Economic development also has been impressive. In the 1990s, the government abandoned decades of economic isolation and welcomed foreign investors. As a result, advanced industries such as computer-software development and biotechnology have blossomed, though rising prices have proved unpopular, especially with lower-paid workers. The country has also become a favorite business process outsourcing destination for the West. The presence of multinational companies and call centers has created many jobs, especially for youth. Despite huge and visible problems facing the government, India remains one of the most accessible destinations in the developing world. Snapshot The foremost attractions in India are the Taj Mahal, religious shrines, the Himalayas, tigers, monkeys, cows, sloth bears, magnificent architecture, beaches, spiritual pilgrimages, great works of art, awe-inspiring scenery, ancient cultures, colonial relics and Bollywood movie musicals. India will appeal to naturally curious and adventurous travelers (some experience traveling in developing countries will be helpful to those going off the beaten path). For first-time visitors, we recommend escorted tours or well-organized itineraries with previously arranged guides and accommodations in each city. Expect to experience hot weather, severe poverty and unexpected delays or schedule changes. Don't expect deluxe accommodations outside urban or tourist areas. Potpourri Hindus believe bathing in the Ganges washes away guilt: Many sadhus (holy men) trek barefoot from Rishikesh to dip three times into the icy water at the source of the river near Gangotri. Ayurvedic medicine has been practiced in India for more than 2,000 years. The regimen, practiced in different ways in various parts of the country, is designed to prevent everything from skin ailments to cancers by strengthening the immune system. Indian weddings are elaborate, showy affairs. In certain community weddings, it is customary for guests to dance, sing and play musical instruments while the couple to be married processes by horse, elephant, camel or bedecked car. It's not uncommon for these processions to block traffic. Chewing betel nut (the seed of the betel palm)—and then spitting it out—is a popular pastime in certain regions of India. Betel nut stains can be found all over, though the government is trying to stop the practice. Some private building owners have been innovative in curbing the practice by installing images of gods on walls, compounds and staircase corners. Most Indians are great fans of cricket, although the national game is hockey. Cricket players have a huge fan following, and victories at international matches are celebrated by lighting fireworks all over the country. Many visitors volunteer to work with the poor of Kolkata. For information on Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity, contact 54-A Lower Circular Road, Kolkata. There's a whole legend built around the theory that Christ was in Kashmir during his missing years. The alleged Tomb of Christ lies outside Srinagar. Most luxury hotels employ physicians and massage therapists to administer massage, medicated steam baths and yoga to their guests. SEE & DO Shopping Among the good buys are fabrics (including silks), clothing and shawls, paintings and prints, religious iconography, dhurries, Oriental carpets, dolls, musical instruments, tea, saffron, batiks, fossils and items made of brass, wood, marble, copper, bronze, jute, crystal, papier-mache and bamboo. Well-made souvenirs are available from most good hotels, but for the real Indian buying experiences head for any local market. The national and state government emporium stores have high-quality items, but prices are usually higher than elsewhere and you can't bargain. Bargaining is the name of the game almost everywhere else: Depending on the product, you may want to offer one-third to two-thirds of the initial asking price and haggle from there. Any item more than 100 years old is classified as an antique, and you will need an export license to take it home. It's true (as you'll be told by gem dealers) that you can buy gems to take home for profit, but you can get burned—only attempt it if you know a lot about gems. It's usually best to avoid vendors selling animal-derived objects—tiger skins, elephant tusks—because trade in most animal products is illegal. If you are determined to purchase such merchandise, the Indian Tourist Office strongly suggests that you insist on seeing the permit to sell animal products and make sure to take a receipt. If you see brand-name products in unexpected places (Gucci bags or U.S.-brand candy bars offered by street vendors), they may not be legitimate. Counterfeit and copycat goods abound. (We had always wondered why the Indian toilet paper, A-One, carried the warning "Beware of Imitations" until we accidentally picked up a roll of A-Won, which had nearly identical packaging.) Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. In established markets, shopping hours usually stretch on till night falls. Because markets differ in which days they close, it's sometimes a good idea to double-check with locals before going to one. Itinerary Local Tours Travel Corporation India (TCI) and Le Passage to India are reputable tour companies that have offices in major Indian cities and also abroad. These companies will organize any special interest tour, such as a palace tour in Rajasthan, an Ayurveda and Yoga tour, cuisine tour, village tour and others. Day By Day To see all of India would take a lifetime; most people try to do it in a few weeks. Found in its urban centers and agrarian communities are temples, beaches, health resorts, deserts, mountain getaways, spiritual retreats, arts centers, religious monuments, forts, palaces, adventure sports, wildlife preserves, unusual festivals and holistic farms. Simply being in India is a fascinating experience. Although India is easier to see independently than many developing countries, we believe most first-time visitors will be happiest on an escorted tour. India has realized its enormous tourist potential, and that's led to an increase in the number of tour operators. Travelers with ample time and experience visiting developing countries will be able to arrange transportation and lodging as they go along, but it's a time-consuming process with lots of hassles. The Indian government is working to improve efficiency, and airline reservations are all computerized now and offer e-ticketing. Indian Railways tickets can be booked online through select credit and debit cards. Delivery of the tickets against cash-on-delivery is also available. Nonetheless, we must emphasize that any itinerary, even on tours, is subject to modification after arrival. We suggest seeing the highlights in the north or south on the first trip and filling in the blanks on subsequent visits. We know not everyone will be able to return, however, so we've constructed a number of itineraries. Below are itineraries first-time visitors should consider. (If you're taking an escorted tour, make sure it includes as many of these stops as possible.) These are somewhat rushed. If more time is available, consult the individual city reports for places that might interest you. Because of the vastness of the country and the horrendous condition of its roads, we recommend flying between cities when possible. It's also easy to add time in neighboring countries such as Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan and Myanmar. All-India Day 1—Arrive Delhi. Day 2—Delhi. Day 3—Fly to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Day 4—Fly to Himachal Pradesh (Simla, Kulu Valley). Day 5—Simla. Day 6—Fly to Jaipur. Day 7—Jaipur. Day 8—Early flight to Varanasi. See nonriver sights. Day 9—Dawn tour of Ganges riverfront activities. Fly to Chennai. Day 10—Chennai. Day 11—Fly to Thiruvananthapuram. Day 12—Thiruvananthapuram/Kovalam Beach area. Day 13—Fly to Mumbai. Day 14—Mumbai. Day 15—Depart India. Northern India Day 1—Arrive Delhi and tour as time permits. Day 2—Leave early for Corbett National Park (political situation allowing). Day 3—Corbett. Day 4—Return to Delhi early and tour city for remainder of day. Day 5—Fly to Srinagar (political situation allowing). Day 6—Srinagar. Day 7—Fly to Agra (you may need to fly to Delhi and drive or take a train to Agra because of flight schedules). Day 8—Agra. Day 9—Fly to Jaipur. Day 10—Jaipur. Day 11—Fly to Varanasi and tour nonriver sights in the afternoon. Day 12—Dawn tour of the Ganges; leave in late afternoon for Kolkata.* Day 13—Kolkata. Day 14—Depart India. *If Kolkata sounds too intense, substitute Darjeeling, though you may have to add an extra day or two to make the connections. Travelers with more time may want to add a day in the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary between Agra and Jaipur. After Srinager, several days could be added in Kashmir and Ladakh, if the political situation allows. Southern India Day 1—Arrive Mumbai. Day 2—Fly to Goa. Day 3—Goa. Day 4—Fly to Kochi. Day 5—Kochi. Day 6—Fly to Thiruvanathapuram/Kovalam. Day 7—Fly to the Bangalore. Day 8—Bangalore. Day 9—Depart for Chennai. Day 10—Chennai. Day 11—Go to Hyderabad. Day 12—Hyderabad. Day 13—Go to Khajuraho. Day 14—Fly to Mumbai.* Day 15—Depart India. *Depending on your flight schedule, on Day 14 you may want to return to Chennai and depart India there. It may also be possible to depart India from Mumbai on Day 14 via a direct connection from Chennai. DINING Dining Overview Indian cuisine ranges from the simple and bland to the lavish and complexly pungent. Each region has its specialty cuisine, though some dishes are available throughout the country. Curries are ubiquitous, as are thali, a vegetarian or meat meal that includes rice and chapatis (similar to heavy flour tortillas), sauces, various side dishes and curds. You'll also find dhal (a lentil soup) and idli (steamed rice cakes) just about everywhere you go. Wheat-based breads like roti, naan, chapatti or puri and cooked rice with a variety of vegetable-, lentil-, fruit- and yogurt-based accompaniments form an Indian meal. It is common to share food on the table. Water is served with meals, as well as drinks such as jaljira (a digestive made with crushed cumin) and fruit juices. Any dish prepared in the Kashmiri-style will be delicate and have lots of fruits and nuts. Meat lovers visiting Kashmir itself should find a restaurant offering a wazwan, a traditional feast containing as many as 17 meat dishes. Indian breads are superlative—there's none better than naan (baked in a tandoori oven), but also try papadum, a wafer-thin lentil-flour bread. Here are some tips for deciphering menus: Pakoras are fried vegetable fritters, and samosas are breaded, fried vegetable triangles, both served as snacks. Dum aloo is a wonderfully spicy potato dish found in the north and served with Indian bread. Buff refers to water-buffalo meat, and mutton is usually goat. Curd, a mild yogurt, is often served with meals. Fruit lassis are refreshing, yogurt-based drinks. For dessert, try kheer (rice pudding). We generally advise against eating from street stalls, unless the food is freshly cooked before your eyes. Indian food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand only. In addition to Indian foods, Western and Chinese restaurants abound, and some of the best meals may be had in hotel restaurants. If you want dairy, opt for local, popular packaged brands of ice cream and dairy products at restaurants and shops. If you're in an area where you don't trust the food, a variety of packaged biscuits, potato chips and other similar items are widely available. So are bottled drinks and fruit juices. Coconut water is available widely and can be refreshing. Stick to bottled water and avoid ice unless you are certain it was made with purified water. Many restaurants use water filters to purify drinking water. Indian brands of soft drinks tend to be extremely sweet. Some states prohibit the sale of alcohol. If you want to drink liquor everywhere you go, get an All India Liquor Permit when you get your visa (or from the Government Tourist Offices in Mumbai, Calcutta, Delhi or Chennai). The western region of India is becoming popular as a wine-producing region. You may want to try the local brands available thoughout India. SECURITY Etiquette Vast and diverse, India is home to numerous cultural, ethnic and religious groups—a fact that creates challenges for travelers trying to learn customs and accepted behaviors. Although Indians are graciously forgiving of mistakes in etiquette, some basic ground rules will make your visit easier. Appointments—You will find it worthwhile to have an Indian intermediary. Appointments should be made as far in advance as possible. As a guest, you will be expected to be on time, but your Indian counterparts may not be as prompt. Personal Introductions—Use professional titles or standard titles (Mr., Mrs. or Ms.) along with the person's last name. Do not use first names unless invited to do so. Handshakes are common only between people of the same sex. In some cases when men and women meet, a traditional greeting is used in place of a handshake. It is performed by folding the hands under the chin as though in prayer, bowing or nodding slightly and saying "namaste" (pronounced nah-mas-tay; it means "I bow to you"). Because most Indian businesspeople speak English, it's not necessary to have your business card translated. Negotiating—Almost every meeting will start with small talk, then a refreshment (often tea) will be served. It is customary to refuse refreshment the first time it is offered but to accept it the second time. (To refuse the second time can be considered an insult.) Business in India is founded on relationships, and you must cultivate personal ties. Indians do not like to refuse and do not like to be refused. Therefore, deals may not be declined explicitly; instead, decisions may be deferred indefinitely. Business in India can be complex because of government regulation. You will need Indian counsel, as well as your own. However, avoid appearing overly concerned about the legalities of your arrangement. The course of negotiations will be slow compared with European and North American standards. Leaders of companies make decisions, but they seek the advice and opinions of the entire management chain. Business Entertaining—Hospitality is an important aspect of business, but that doesn't mean business will be discussed as a part of social entertaining or even at a "business" meal. Lunch is the most common meal used for business gatherings. Dinner meetings are rare. Eat only with the right hand, never the left, as it is considered unclean. Do not touch a communal dish with your hands and do not offer anyone food from your plate. Remember the standard dietary restrictions: Hindus don't eat beef; Muslims don't eat pork. Many of the religiously devout don't drink alcohol. It is not the practice to thank your hosts for a meal. Instead, offer to reciprocate. Body Language—Indians typically maintain a certain physical distance. Public intimacy—even greeting friends with hugs or kisses—is frowned upon. It is best not to address women who are walking by themselves and whom you do not know. Whistling and winking are considered inappropriate. It's rude to point at people or objects with your fingers, and it's even worse to point with your feet. Indians typically point with their chins and a nod of the head. Do not motion someone to you with your palm up. Instead, leave the palm down and beckon with all of your fingers in a scooping motion. Do not stand with your hands on your hips, as this is an aggressive posture. Do not touch any Indian, even children, on the head. It is not uncommon for men to walk hand in hand. Gift Giving—Gifts are not opened in the presence of the giver. Conversation—It is best to stay away from religion in conversations (Hindu-Muslim relations are complicated and sometimes tense). You should avoid discussions of the caste system, the nation's poverty and India's primary rivals: Pakistan and China. On the other hand, there are three things most Indians always enjoy discussing: movies, politics and cricket. Travel and Indian culture and history are also good topics. Other Information—Shoes are always removed before entering Hindu or Sikh temples, mosques and most monuments. Some families remove their shoes at home, but this isn't expected of guests, especially foreigners (though it is good etiquette to remove them if your hosts and other guests have done so). It is considered impolite to smoke in some Indian homes and in restaurants and shops. Most Sikhs dislike smoking, so always ask before you light up. Smoking is prohibited at public places like railway stations and other public transit. Avoid wearing leather goods out of respect for Hindu beliefs. Women enjoy a near equal status in the Indian business community and can pay for meals and other entertainment. Personal Safety India is a vast country generally safe for travelers but with several pockets that are prone to violence. Leisure travelers may want to avoid the state of Kashmir and Jammu (especially the Doda district, Srinagar and Kishtwar), the flashpoint for India's conflict with Pakistan and an area beset by terrorist attacks; the western state of Gujarat, where violent clashes between Hindus and Muslims have taken place; and north-central and northwestern Uttar Pradesh (including Corbett and Dudhwa National Parks), where there is more religious strife surrounding the construction of a temple. Sporadic violence by Maoist and ethnic insurgent groups has been reported in parts of Asam, Nagaland, Tripura and Meghalaya. Terrorist groups, some of which are linked to al-Qaida and have been implicated in attacks on Westerners, are active in India and have attacked and killed civilians. Be cautious when in the vicinity of government installations and when visiting tourist sites or attending public events throughout the country. Special permits are needed to visit many areas, including Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, the northern districts of Spiti and Kulu, the border regions of Jammu and Kashmir, portions of Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan between Ganganagar and Sanchar, and the Andaman, Nicobar and Laccadive islands. Indian consulates abroad and foreigners' regional registration centers in India can issue the permits. Petty crime and robberies take place, and tourists are sometimes specifically targeted, especially those traveling on their own. Remain aware of your surroundings, and be discreet with large amounts of money or valuable items such as cameras. Demonstrations and strikes can be common occurrences in India. Avoid such disturbances: Indian police have been known to fire into crowds to disperse them. Women traveling alone should take extra precautions. Dress conservatively and stay within populated, well-lit areas. Generally much more annoying than threatening are India's omnipresent touts. Almost everywhere you go, people will approach you to try to sell you something or to offer you a "good deal"—a taxi driver may offer to be your guide for a day or to give you a free ride to your hotel. Of course, nothing is free, and these services are usually paid for through increased prices at hotels and shops. There are times when it's worthwhile to have a guide, but it's usually better (and cheaper) to arrange for the guide through the tourist board. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency. Health Sanitary conditions in many restaurants in India are not up to Western standards. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe, but peel fresh fruit and raw vegetables, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly, avoid local dairy products (except yogurt) and assume the tap water is unsafe (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). Avoid food or drinks from street vendors. Malaria is present in all parts of India except for the northern states of Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, and Sikkim. See your doctor about obtaining malaria suppressants, and take insect repellent. Also ask your doctor about inoculations for hepatitis, meningitis and Japanese encephalitis. Cholera and gastroenteritis occur most frequently during the summer. Skin infections are common; even the smallest wound should be disinfected and covered with a bandage. Also common among travelers are mild dysentery and respiratory problems (major cities are notorious for air pollution). These afflictions are usually more annoying than threatening. If you need medical attention while in India, see a doctor who was trained in the West or who displays a diploma from a major Indian university; or contact your local embassy for a list of qualified physicians and dentists. Because prescriptions are not needed at pharmacies, many quacks simply call themselves doctors and dispense medicine freely. Take along all prescription medicine needed for the trip (women should take anything they need for personal hygiene). The sun can be strong, so use sunscreen liberally and wear a hat. Don't forget a comfortable pair of walking shoes. If you're going to Kashmir or Ladakh, you may experience altitude sickness (dizziness, headaches and nausea are common symptoms). Altitude sickness can be fatal. If symptoms persist, see a doctor (you may be required to return to lower altitudes). Trekkers in isolated areas can be days away from adequate health care. Expect to get sick in India: To remain perfectly healthy would necessitate keeping a constant guard—verging on paranoia—about one's food, accommodations and surroundings. If you isolate yourself from India's most colorful experiences, you'll miss out on the fun of the country. For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency. Dos & Don'ts Do dress conservatively at most Indian beaches (though there are some beaches that allow nude bathing). This is especially true for women. Normal Western beach attire may send a strong, though unintended, signal. Attacks on foreign women have occurred, especially in the state of Kerala. Don't be shocked by India's contradictions. There are areas where tobacco use, sex districts, nude bathing and other activities exist in close proximity to orthodoxy and extreme conservatism. Do be prepared for begging, which has a legitimate place in Indian society. Even poor people give to beggars or charity to earn religious merit. The Indian government, however, would like to regulate begging more. There have been instances in which parents have maimed or drugged their children (to make them appear sick) to increase begging profits. Though begging is common, you are not under obligation to give money. Don't try to sneak into temples and mosques that forbid non-Hindus or non-Muslims. Don't be surprised if you are frequently the center of attention when traveling around the country. Staring unabashedly is not a social taboo. Do carry toilet paper with you (or adjust to the Indian habit of using water instead), but don't throw it down the toilet without first checking to see if there's a basket to put it in (narrow pipes clog easily). And don't be surprised to see men defecating or urinating in public when restrooms are not readily available. Women, in the same circumstance, tend to use cover of darkness and huddle in groups. Do be open and friendly in conversations with locals. Indians can be quite talkative, asking strangers questions (about marital status, salary, etc.) that might be interpreted as overly personal in other cultures. HOTELS Hotel Overview Accommodations range from world-class deluxe properties to lodges in game reserves, palaces, campgrounds, adequate locally run hotels and way-below-basic guesthouses. Deluxe accommodations can be found in the larger cities, and first-class hotels do business in most cities with major tourist attractions. The adventurous might want to stay in Spartan accommodations (which may mean no water or electricity), but it's a good idea to inspect the rooms before accepting them. Homestays are available in certain cities, towns and in villages. A list of these can be obtained from local tourism offices. Travelers can also stay in one of the thousands of Hindu ashrams, or meditative communes, so long as their stay is more than several days. Accommodation is usually extremely basic, but ashrams offer a good chance for visitors to slow down to the Indian pace of life. For most people, it's best simply to reserve first-class or better to ensure there won't be any unpleasant surprises (at the lower end, you may find mouse droppings on the pillows, dirty water in the pool, etc.). In smaller towns, very rustic guesthouses may be all that's available, though budget hotels by major chains are starting to spring up everywhere. If you're traveling to rural areas, buy a colorful piece of cloth to toss over the bed before sleeping on it—some guesthouses don't change their sheets between guests (or might have insect-infested mattresses). Most game reserves offer simple government lodging, but a few feature restored maharajahs' palaces. If you're staying in a hotel with a pool, be sure to inquire about swimming hours. Often men and women are required to swim at separate times, and the pool can be closed during the hottest hours of the day. A hotel tax of 10% is effective on all hotel rooms priced over US$26/Rs1,200. FACTS Geostats Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, visas, proof of onward passage and sufficient funds required of Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. (Passport must be valid for at least six months after arrival.) Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure. There are no provisions for obtaining visas upon arrival. Year-long visas are issued for persons visiting India for medical treatment. Population: 1,080,264,388. Languages: Hindi, English, 16 other official languages, thousands of dialects.. Predominant Religions: Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Jainism, Buddhism, others.. Time Zone: 5.5 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+5.5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Telephone Codes: 91, country code; Money Currency Exchange It is best to change money at authorized moneychangers like Thomas Cook, American Express, LKP, Trans Corps, Wiezmann and Travex money exchange bureaus. Always keep your receipt. Hotels also change money. Most government emporiums accept foreign currency. Credit cards are widely accepted. Banking Hours Generally Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm, Saturday 10 am-noon. Long lines are common, and you are often required to stand in at least two lines for every transaction. Taxes A Value Added Tax (VAT) of 12.5% is imposed on most goods, including food and beverages and at all restaurants. A 20% tax is charged on alcohol. Tipping Tipping is important. However, you should be discreet and don't overtip. Tip 10% in better restaurants that haven't added a service charge to the bill. Small change will be appreciated in modest restaurants. Tip taxi drivers by rounding off the fare (more only if given exceptional service). Tip porters about US$0.25/Rs1 per bag. The Indian concept of baksheesh includes tipping, but is broader: In India you'll be expected to pay small amounts in order to get things done, as well as to reward jobs already accomplished. Weather For most of the country, October-March is (by far) the best time to visit. During those months, temperatures range from 40-60 F/5-15 C in the north to 65-85 F/19-30 C in the south. March-June is dry and exceedingly hot (85-110 F/30-44 C), and June-October is monsoon time (20-80 in/50-200 cm of rain will fall in one season). The best times to visit Darjeeling and other mountain areas are March, April, October and November. Obviously, India's less crowded with tourists during the off-seasons, but it can be so hot in the spring and summer that it's not possible to stay outdoors for long periods. During the rainy period, the monsoon washes away many roads in game parks and rural areas (southeastern India has a second rainy period during the cool season). If you're going to India during spring or summer, you'll want to stick to the hill stations (60-70 F/ 15-21 C). During the winter, avoid Kashmir (30-45 F/0-7 C), unless you're going skiing, and Ladakh—one of the coldest inhabited regions on Earth. What to Wear Temperatures vary from place to place. Pure cottons are best for summer. Light wools for winter and rainy seasons are good. Thin cotton inner layers can be worn to absorb sweat in extreme hot weather. Loose cotton shirts and cotton full-length pants are recommended to avoid sunburns. Hats, sunglasses and sunscreen are recommended to avoid sun exposure. Carry a sweater or light jacket as evenings can get chilly during winter. Northern regions get very cold during winters because of their proximity to the Himalayas. Wools and warm jackets are recommended there. Very warm clothes are suitable for snowy regions of Jammu, Kashmir, Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh. Business meetings require conservative business suits or full shirts and pants for men and dresses that cover the shoulders and legs for women. Conservative dress is expected in smaller towns. Some Hindu temples require that men and women wear full-length garments while entering the complex. Communication Telephone Telephones are widely available at most tourist destinations, and calling cards, which are valid throughout India for local or long-distance calling, are available at many shops. Internet Access Internet access is available at cyber cafes, Sify centers, major post and telegraph offices, hotels and at some airports. Wi-Fi access is available at most major hotels. Mail & Package Services The Indian postal service is efficient in shipping letters and packages. It also has a speedpost service for express delivery. DHL, Blue Dart and FedEx also have offices in major cities in India. Newspapers & Magazines India, being a vast country, has many regional newspapers that provide relevant information from the region. The Hindu and Indian Express are available all over India with regional insertions where necessary. The Deccan Herald in the south and the Hindustan Times in the north are popular. The Independent and Telegraph are available in the East. The Economic Times, Business Line and Financial Express cover business news. The International Herald Tribune, USA Today, The Guardian and Financial Times are also available. Transportation Depending on whom you ask, traveling in India is either an adventure or a headache. The good news is that the transportation network is extensive: flights, roads and especially trains connect the scattered and disparate places of this vast country. The bad news is that the infrastructure can be poor and conveyances are almost always crowded. If you possess a spirit of ruggedness and discovery, ground travel in India has many rewards—roads and trains reveal fascinating slices of life. Rolling along by car or bus you'll see entire villages doing their daily business alongside the road—and often right in the middle of it. On trains, the most popular form of transit, crowds of families, hawkers, laborers, businesspeople and others pack the aisles, chatting, dozing, selling or giving you their business cards. No matter what form of ground transportation you take, don't forget to look out the window. This will reveal the country's sometimes wonderful landscapes and take your mind off the inconveniences you might have experienced while procuring tickets, fending off touts and visiting public restrooms. Other travelers might prefer escorted tours. Air Mumbai Airport (BOM) is 23 mi/36 km from town (an airport bus service is available—there's also a separate domestic airport, so be sure your driver knows which one you want); the Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL) is 9 mi/14 km outside Delhi; Dum Dum Airport (CCU) is 17 mi/27 km from Kolkata; and Meenambarkkam Airport (MAA) in Chennai is 10 mi/16 km outside of town. Bangalore International Airport (BLR) is 8 mi/13 km from the city. Hyderabad Airport (HYD) is 3 mi/5 km from the city. Try to be thorough when filling out your Tourist Baggage Report Form when you land. Otherwise, your camera, jewelry and other items may be taxed when you depart. Indian Airlines, Jet Airways, Kingfisher, Air Deccan and a number of small regional airlines fly internally. Bus It's possible to enter India overland from Nepal via bus, but only at two border crossing points: Raxaul and Birganj (the others were closed following trade disputes between the countries). The only open land crossing from Pakistan is on the road between Lahore and Amritsar, and though Lahore-Amritsar bus service has re-started, the area is not currently safe for tourists. Buses offer a number of advantages: They are cheap, available almost all of the time and don't need to be booked in advance. They also connect most cities. Tourist buses are tolerable. Video coaches typically show epic Hindi movies at maximum volume. (It can be disconcerting to watch as your driver tries to view the movie, too. He sits in a small cockpit at the front of the bus, and sometimes it seems like he and his friends are having quite a party as the bus rolls along.) Local buses are cramped and generally awful: One solution is to buy two tickets and fend others off your seats. You may find it more comfortable—though dangerous—on the roof with the luggage and overflow passengers. For the smoothest ride inside, try to get a seat between the axles. Bus transport is better organized in larger cities. Instructions are typically in local languages. Many luxury private buses run between popular cities. These are comfortable and stop at limited places on the way for refreshments, clean toilets and hygienic food courts. These can be booked through tour operators or online. Executive coaches have broader seats and more leg room, and sleeper coaches are also available. Some are also air conditioned. Car It is possible to rent cars, but don't do so without hiring a driver. You'll want to have an expert navigating the poorly maintained roads, which carry a strange, but somehow quite wonderful, parade of trucks, pedestrians and animals. As you might imagine, driving is done with one hand on the wheel and the other on the horn. Taxi Taxis are available in most cities. Make sure the meter is cleared or, if a fare chart is used, ask politely to be shown how your fare was calculated. Some fares go up after 10 or 11 pm. Auto-rickshaws are cheaper (but less safe and more polluting) than taxis. They have also been banned inside a number of cities. In some areas, you might want to ride in a bicycle rickshaw or pony cart. Kolkata is one of the last remaining places with human-pulled rickshaws. Train Unless time is tight, plan at least one train trip. It may not be the most comfortable ride, but it will expose you to colorful and fascinating Indian life. The country's 7,000 trains and 40,000 mi/64,400 km of track transport more than 10 million people a day. There are specialty tours on luxurious train carriages (the Palace on Wheels is popular, but expensive). The key to a pleasurable rail trip through India is the purchase of an Indrail Pass—we recommend the air-conditioned, first-class pass, if possible. (Regular second-class sleepers have no door—and sometimes no air-conditioning—so your berth is open to the nonstop bustlings of the passengers.) The pass saves enormous amounts of time otherwise spent waiting in ticket lines. Make train reservations prior to departure or in major cities, where railway offices have computerized systems. Tickets also can be purchased online. Usually available for first-class and air-conditioned second-class only (and reserved in advance), additional bedding makes berths quite comfortable. Few train stations have restrooms that could be described as clean and sanitary (even by the most charitable person). Ditto for the trains themselves. Most Indian train stations have separate waiting rooms for those holding first-class or reserved second-class tickets and another, separate room for women traveling alone. There's also a compartment with a door in second-class carriages for women traveling alone, though these can be small and claustrophobic (sometimes men—especially police and military—also occupy the women's compartment on crowded trains). In Delhi, go to Baroda House, a special building where tourists purchase tickets. In addition, a lot of Delhi-based tourist agencies can purchase the tickets for you in advance, for a nominal fee. (Insist on paying after the tickets are delivered. It does not take more than a day to find out whether tickets are available. Be suspicious if the tourist agency delays without any reason.) In other cities, there's no special secret for purchasing tickets at train stations—just jump in with the mob and start squeezing forward, or walk behind the ticket counters, into the office itself, and talk to the office manager. If you suspect you're being solicited for a bribe to get a ticket, threaten to speak to the station master. Indian trains are usually a safe means of travel, but incidents do occasionally occur. On an overnight sleeper service once from Lucknow to Rishikesh (the Jhansi Express), our compartment was overrun by about 200 chanting Communist demonstrators who crammed into the darkened compartment and threatened us with physical injury if we failed to give up our bunks. Do keep an especially close eye on your bags when on trains. We've (twice) lost bags before the train even pulled out. Since reservations are publicly posted at stations, thieves look for Western names, pretend to be passengers in your compartment and, as you're getting settled, make off with your bags by sticking them into larger, empty bags. They'll get off the train before it pulls out of the station. Luxury Trains: Luxury trains with private cabin accommodation and dining facilities connect popular tourist destinations on a week-long journey. The Deccan Odyssey begins its journey from Mumbai and stops at Goa, Aurangabad (for Ajanta and Ellora), Pune and Nasik before it returns to Mumbai in a week's time. Intermediate stops at Ganpatipule. Ratnagiri, Sindhudurg and Tarkarli give a peek into countryside life. Palace on Wheels begins from Delhi and stops at Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, SawaMadhopur, Ranthambhor, Chittaurgarh, Bharatpur and Agra and returns to Delhi on the seventh day. Prior reservations are necessary to go on these trains and can be made online or through your travel agent. Other An autorickshaw, or auto, as it is popularly known, is a three-wheeled transport available within cities and towns. It can accommodate three people behind the driver's seat. These are metered for fare calculations. Ask the driver to turn on the meter if he doesn't do so automatically when you get on. In some smaller towns where meters are not used, be sure to settle on a fare before you go. Open sides of the auto provide for photo opportunities at traffic signals and other brief stop-overs. For More Information Each state and most large cities have their own tourist boards, which provide listings of events, sights, shopping centers and local tour companies. Many of them have a Web site, and some offer online tour bookings. Australia: Government of India Tourist Office, 46-49 Piccadilly Plaza, Level 2, 210 Pitt St., Sydney, NSW-2000. Phone 2-9264-4855, Fax 2-9265-4860. http://tourisminindia.com. Canada: Government of India Tourist Office, 60 Bloor St. W., Suite 1003, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8. Phone 416-962-3787. Fax 416-962-6279. http://tourisminindia.com. U.K.: Government of India Tourist Office, 7 Cork St., London W1X 2AB. Phone 20-7437-3677. Fax 20-7494-1048. http://tourisminindia.com. U.S.: Government of India Tourist Office, 1270 Ave. of the Americas, Suite 1808, New York, New York 10020. Phone 212-586-4901. Fax 212-582-3274. http://tourisminindia.com. There is also an office in Los Angeles. Indian Embassies Australia: Embassy of India, 3-5 Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600. Phone 2-6273-3999. Fax 2-6273-1308. Canada: India High Commission, 10 Springfield Road, Ottawa, ON K1M 1C9. Phone 613-744-3751. Fax 613-744-0913. There are consulates in Toronto and Vancouver. http://www.docuweb.ca/India. U.K.: High Commission of India, India House, Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA. Phone 7836-8484. Fax 7836-4331. http://www.hcilondon.org. U.S.: Embassy of India, 2107 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-939-7000. Fax 202-265-4351. There are consulates in Chicago, Honolulu, New Orleans, New York and San Francisco. http://www.indiagov.org. Foreign Embassies in India Australian High Commission, P.O. Box 5210, Australian Compound, No. 1/50 G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110-021. Phone 11-4139-9900. Fax 11-4149-4490. There is a consulate in Mumbai. Canadian High Commission, 7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, P.O. Box 5207, New Delhi 110021. Phone 11-4178-2000. Fax 11-4178-2020. There are consulates in Mumbai, Kolkata and Chandigarh. British High Commission, Shanti Path, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110 021. Phone 11-2687-2161. Fax 11-2687-0065. There are deputy high commissions in Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. U.S. Embassy, Shanti Path, Chanakyapuri, Delhi, India 110021. Phone 11-2419-8000. Fax 11-2419-0017. There are consulates in Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. Recommended Guidebooks Cadogan Guides: India by Frank Kusy (Cadogan Books). A well-presented, readable and thorough guide to the country. India and Bangladesh by Hugh Finlay et al. (Lonely Planet). An excellent collection of detailed maps. A good investment for people planning to spend a fair bit of time there and who hope to get off the beaten path. India: The Rough Guide by David Abram et al. (Rough Guides). Eyewitness Travel Guides: India (DK Publishing). Insight Guides: Indian Wildlife (APA Publications). India by Rail by Royston Ellis and Samit Roychoudhury (Bradt Publications, U.K./Hunter Publishing, U.S.). An extensive collection of practical information for travelers planning to use India's extensive—and often mind-boggling—train network. Lonely Planet Rajasthan by Sarina Singh and Michelle Coxall (Lonely Planet Guides). India Unveiled by Robert Arnett (Atman Press). Though it lacks practical, nuts-and-bolts details, this volume paints vivid and absorbing portraits—in words and photographs—of life in nearly all of the states and regions of India. Additional Reading Travelers' Tales India by James O'Reilly and Larry Habegger (Travelers' Tales Inc.). A wonderful collection of articles about experiences in India. The Penguin Guide to the Monuments of India by George Michell and Philip Davies (Viking). Although too heavy to carry along, this two-volume work is the source for information on the monuments. Out of print but worth tracking down. An Area of Darkness and India: A Wounded Civilization by V.S. Naipaul (Penguin). Controversial commentaries on modern India by the Noble Prize-winning Trinidadian writer of Indian descent. Karma Cola by Gita Mehta is a witty account of the collision between Eastern mysticism and Western technology and capitalism. Out of God's Oven: Travels in a Fractured Land by Dom Moraes and Sarayu Srivatsa (Varaity Book Depot). A contemporary account of traveling through the heart of India. India in Slow Motion by Mark Tully and Gillian Wright (Viking India). Authors probe a wide range of aspects of Indian life, creating a rich portrait of the country. Kipling's Stories of India by Rudyard Kipling (Rand McNally & Co.).